Hi Mtown, 

Welcome to the forum. Having read your post, I would suggest from now on you you don't use screwdrivers in that way as you can see the damage they can cause. Which doesn't really help you in this occasion but should prevent issues in the future.

The best way to do your repair is to get hold of a board view and a schematic for your motherboard. This will tell you what parts go where. Alternatively you'll have to remove the components and then measure them.

If you have no experience using a hot air to remove components then I would suggest getting a donor board and practising on that. You don't actually have to remove the components on your board as there is enough room to slide them to the side for testing purposes. 

I would suggest that you have two capacitors and an inductor missing from the circuit in the picture but I have not got board views for your device.

SMD devices are marked where possible but capacitors, resistors and inductors of smaller sizes are not marked in any way other than colours to denote type.

Thank you @matrs - it has been an expensive lesson. In my defense it was a three slot 3090 with the air cooler still on. They now offer a remote latch unlock button on the x-670 boards - I imagine I am not the only one that did this. There isn’t enough room to get your fingers between the mobo and the graphics card to get to the PCIe release tabs. I now use riser cables for air cooled, and liquid cooled makes the card thin enough to get to the latches. 

I am struggling to find any kind of boardview product that has this asus board. It sucks being a noob. 

I believe you are right that two are capacitors and the other is a filter (possibly a resistor). Any tricks to measure the components while on the board to determine the values?

I will most likely do some practicing on some other broken things - I have an Astro headset, a Viper keyfob, and several broken laptops/phones/tablets to tinker with. This stuff is so much fun. I won’t be a noob for long. 

I appreciate the help and feedback!

have a blessed day!

@mtown

Because of what they are, you might get away with measuring the capacitors in situ but you won't get away with the filter as that will definitely be in series with something. Plus you won't measure filters just by their resistance. 

For best results you need to isolate them all to measure them. Or find a schematic, all the schematics I can see are for the I variant which should be very similar to your board.

Thank you @matrs - I am struggling to find any schematics of any kind for any device.  Just another consequence of being a noob I suppose.  I really thought that having a "known good" version of my "broken" things would increase the chance of success, but I am finding out just how little I really know.   I don't plan on being a mooch for very long - I typically learn quickly.  I have decided to put the motherboards away for now until I get some practice de-soldering and soldering with these tiny components -- Alex makes it looks so easy!

If you have any pointers for where to find schematics and boardviews -- I would be very grateful.  I believe there are 3 or 4 variants of this x570 board.  The x570-F is the same as the others -- it just lacks any kind of wifi adapter.  I imagine the chipset portion of the boards are identical, so any kind of schematic for any ROG Strix X570 might work.

Is there a way to get the schematics from Asus?  Do you have to be a registered "partner" or authorized repair shop to acquire these things?

Anyhow, I really appreciate the time you have taken to assist me.  I am going to start another topic about an Astro A50 gaming headset - I have run into a similar issue with it, but I am much less timid to try stuff out on it.

@mtown 

A known good board is great for all sorts of diagnostic stuff. Better then board views and schematics in many ways.

https://vinafix.com/

Is a very good site for these sorts of things. 

You'll never get an official release of these things as they are all proprietary and get leaked to us.

your best shot may be to use a esr meter to identify the parts.

I was able to replace all of the missing components from the board, but it still will not post.  There are a couple of resistors that are testing differently to a known-good board of the same model.  From what I understand, resistors don't typically go bad - so, I am hesitant to replace them.  On the known good board, I am measuring nearly twice the resistance compared to the bad board.  These resistors are in series, but since I am comparing both "series" the same way -- I should be getting the same reading, right?  I guess it is possible there was some power on the board when the damage occurred - could that have caused one or more resistors to fail?  The PC was shut down, but the power supply was turned on and plugged in -- I don't know what state that would have left this area in.  

I was also told by ASUS that this is an Asian market specific variant of this board - which is why they wouldn't repair it for me.  I cannot rule out that the resistors are fine and there are just some subtle variations in the components used.  Though I kind of doubt it.

The mobo does power on.  It fails on the memory initialization - the RAM LED lights up and the POST stalls out.  It never advances to initializing the CPU.  (The final step is to initialize the VGA - which they should rename to DISPLAY or something, it has been a hot minute since I have seen a VGA adapter).  That LED could also be a red-herring.  I imagine the bios chip would need to find the x570 chipset at some point in the process - and it may actually be failing with that initialization routine (and never getting to the RAM initialization).  The chipset is near the damaged area.

My plan is to just replace the two resistors with two 5K resistors (that is what they measured out to on the good board when I removed them).

Any "Umm, no way I would do it that way" comments before I yolo it?  Thanks again for any insight or guidance!