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Xbox Series X HDMI Repair question

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(@Guest)
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Hey all,

I work at a repair shop and I have done many Xbox Series X HDMI port replacements. Every time I attempt a repair I have always done the repair differently with no set "plan of attack." I always start off by using leaded low melt solder and apply it to the HDMI pins and both bottom and top sides of the HDMI anchor points. I know when to stop applying low melt once I see the low melt get sucked into the anchor spots. The part where I always get stuck is the heating process. Most people know that the board is incredibly thick and typically uses a lot of heat from the hot air station to remove the HDMI. I can never find that sweet spot where I feel safe using high temperatures and components do not just blow up. I've worked with phone motherboards and every time I get to 450C on my hot air station, components will blow up. For my HDMI repairs I have always started at 400C and the HDMI will not budge, I try 450C and the port will not budge. However, I've noticed that if I put my tweezers under the side of the HDMI port and lift up, the HDMI will come loose with some force. I have never had pads rip off, but I am seeking out a safer way to work on the HDMI port. I have seen some videos of people using the hot air station at 480C at 5 or 6 airflow and heat from the bottom. I have used hot air from the top in which the HDMI does come loose eventually. Sometimes I'm with the hot air station for 10 minutes just blasting the HDMI port with 450C at 6 airflow.

What is a safe procedure for Series X HDMI ports?
What is a safe temperature for removing the port?
How long does it take for the hot air to loosen the connector?
What side of the HDMI is a safe way of removing the port?

Thanks,
Brenn


   
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 Al
(@Al)
New Member Guest
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 1
 

Hey all,

I work at a repair shop and I have done many Xbox Series X HDMI port replacements. Every time I attempt a repair I have always done the repair differently with no set "plan of attack." I always start off by using leaded low melt solder and apply it to the HDMI pins and both bottom and top sides of the HDMI anchor points. I know when to stop applying low melt once I see the low melt get sucked into the anchor spots. The part where I always get stuck is the heating process. Most people know that the board is incredibly thick and typically uses a lot of heat from the hot air station to remove the HDMI. I can never find that sweet spot where I feel safe using high temperatures and components do not just blow up. I've worked with phone motherboards and every time I get to 450C on my hot air station, components will blow up. For my HDMI repairs I have always started at 400C and the HDMI will not budge, I try 450C and the port will not budge. However, I've noticed that if I put my tweezers under the side of the HDMI port and lift up, the HDMI will come loose with some force. I have never had pads rip off, but I am seeking out a safer way to work on the HDMI port. I have seen some videos of people using the hot air station at 480C at 5 or 6 airflow and heat from the bottom. I have used hot air from the top in which the HDMI does come loose eventually. Sometimes I'm with the hot air station for 10 minutes just blasting the HDMI port with 450C at 6 airflow.

What is a safe procedure for Series X HDMI ports?
What is a safe temperature for removing the port?
How long does it take for the hot air to loosen the connector?
What side of the HDMI is a safe way of removing the port?

Thanks,
Brenn

 

dang, I can’t believe no one replied to you. I’m currently facing the same problem.

 


   
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(@nhaleem)
Member
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 0
 

Give it a good hit with regular unleaded solder for the anchors, and pins. Also the front ones between the port and board. Then use highest temp, and highest air directed at the port from behind. The solder will melt before anything else on the board. It works every time.  


   
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