Hi,

I'm troubleshooting an ASUS ROG G14 GA401 motherboard and I'm looking for advice from someone who has seen many of these boards.

Current situation

The board is completely dead.

I traced the problem to the +5VSUS / standby power area.

Measurements performed

PU8701 (SN51285ARUKR)

I originally suspected PU8701.

I removed PU8701 completely from the board.

After removal:

The short is still present.

VO1 / +5VSUS side still measures almost shorted to ground.

Pin 14 (VO1 / +5VSUS) reads approximately 005-006 in diode mode to GND.

Pin 8 (SW2 / +3VA_DSW section) does not show the same low reading.

Because the short remained after removing PU8701, I assume PU8701 itself is probably not the root cause.

PL8701 isolation

I removed PL8701 to separate the regulator output from the rest of the rail.

Results:

One side of the coil measures around 006 to GND.

The other side measures around 001 to GND.

This seems to indicate the heavy load/short is located on the +5VSUS rail side.

MOSFET checks

I checked:

PQH8701

PQL8701

Both appear normal and do not seem shorted.

TPS22968 load switch (PU8801)

I also investigated the 3VA_DSW load switch:

PU8801 = TPS22968

Measured all pins in diode mode against GND

Results:

Pin 1,2 = 002

Pin 3 = 714

Pin 4 = 002

Pin 5 = 714

Pin 6,7 = 002

Pin 8,9 = 859

Pin 10 = 1203

Pin 11 = 002

Pin 12 = 1203

Pin 13,14 = 819

I also injected voltage into VIN pins:

Pins 1/2 = only about 0.039 mA

Pin 4 = about 0.039 mA

Pins 6/7 = about 0.132 mA

Nothing became warm.

Because of that, I am currently not convinced PU8801 is the source of the fault.

Voltage injection

I injected voltage directly into the shorted +5VSUS rail.

Tests:

0.3 V → current draw present

0.5 V → about 300 mA

0.8 V → current immediately rises to current limit (~500 mA)

The rail behaves almost like a direct short.

I used cooling spray / propane-butane method to look for a hotspot.

Result:

No obvious component heats up.

EC does not get warm.

No visible hotspot anywhere.

Question

Since PU8701 is removed and the short remains on +5VSUS:

What are the most common failures you have seen on GA401 boards causing a hard short on +5VSUS?

Is there a known IC on this rail that commonly fails?

Would you continue isolating +5VSUS loads one by one, or increase injection voltage/current further?

Have you ever seen the EC or PCH create this type of symptom on this platform?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks 

Posted picture Is mosfet , And drain / source Is shorted ,(mosfet removed , checked outside thé board And Its ok , short on the board on the other hand Is still present. 

Hello. I pulled the graphics card (gv-n3060gaming oc-12gd) out to replace the fans. When separating the board from the fan housing a small 3pin connector gave me a lot of trouble & you guessed it, I pulled the wires out of the connector. I would be very thankful if someone could point me in the right direction as how to fix this. I’m not sure what this connector is called so that I can order the right one & also need advise to make sure I position each wire in its correct hole in the new connector. I wouldn’t want to fry my pc or the graphics card. I’ve attached pics showing where the wires are coming from & where they connect to. Thanks in advance.

I have a Gigabyte RTX 3080Ti Gaming OC 12G (GV-N308TGAMING OC-12GD) with a confirmed hardware fault on the 8-pin #2 power connector. I have done extensive diagnostics and need help identifying the exact component to replace.

System specs:

• GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3080Ti Gaming OC 12G
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700
• Motherboard: ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming 4
• PSU: Corsair RM750e
• RAM: 64GB DDR4 2666MHz

Symptoms:

• 8-Pin #2 draws only 0.3W at idle and 0.4W under full load
• 8-Pin #1 works perfectly (88W idle, 152W under load)
• Total power draw limited to ~211W instead of 370W (BIOS default)
• Performance limited to ~70% in 3DMark Time Spy (score: 11,965 vs average 16,923)
• Card boots and works normally with only 8-Pin #1 connected
• 12V voltage IS present on 8-Pin #2

Diagnostics already performed:

• All connector pins → continuity OK
• Polyfuse → continuity OK 
• No visible burn marks on PCB 
• uP95120 PWM controller visible on PCB 
• GPU-Z BIOS: Power limit default 370W, maximum 370W 
• HWiNFO confirmed: 8-Pin #2 stays at 0.3-0.4W even under full load 

Which specific component should I test/replace on the 8-Pin #2 power circuit? Is there a boardview or schematic available for this exact card?

I would like to no the cost of clearing the gpu and adding new thermopaste or new pad. Card is working but over heating when running 30 mins. 
105 c .. I also not sure is it worth it 4.5 years old might be end of life. Might be time to get new card. You deserve your labor and time and material.

I mess with cleaning the computer and changed the thermo paste on the CPU. And changing parts throughout the computer. Gpu- A man has to know his limitations. 

Thank you Bill